General Road Information
Driving in Mexico is a lot different than driving
in the United States. Highways south of the border towns are relatively
unmarked, with a general lack of shoulders to pull onto in case of emergency.
Most highways are very narrow. Needless to say, careful driving is
important while touring Baja California.
Gasoline is very unreliable, especially in the
northern/middle portion of Baja. Therefore, it is always best to
fill up, "wherever you can, whenever you can", just in case. See
Some
Thoughts on Fuel for my related gasoline stories. Gas cans
are an option, but they must be empty when you enter Mexico (under Mexican
law). You stand the risk of having them emptied out for you, or paying
a fine, or both, if you are searched at the border.
In general, paved roads are two-lane (one lane
for each direction), and are very narrow. Most routes are in good
condition, although it is not uncommon to find many long stretches of road
littered with potholes and washouts, especially after heavy rains.
It seems to take the Mexican government a long time to fix such places,
especially in the remote areas of the peninsula.
Baja California has many paved roads, Highway
1 being the most recognizable. Highway's 2, 3, 5, & 19 also form
very important routes to the extreme northern and southern portions of
the peninsula.
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Auto Insurance
A question that is asked a lot, is regarding
auto insurance. American or Canadian auto insurance is NOT
valid in Mexico. You will need to purchase a separate policy for
the time you will be traveling outside the United States or Canada.
Insurance can be bought by the day, although some places can cover you
for up to a year. If you are a AAA member, you can purchase insurance
through your local AAA as well. This will save you the 15 minutes
it will take to get the insurance on the way down, but sometimes it takes
an hour just to get the insurance at the AAA office.
Your best bet, if you are traveling for less
than 14 days, is to purchase insurance at one of the companies located
just off the freeway, one or two exits before the border. Mexican
law requires you to have liability only, but full coverage is the safest
bet, and is usually only a few dollars more (better for peace of mind).
Do not leave the policy in your car! I find it best to carry it in
a bag or suitcase to my hotel room, or in a ladies purse. To purchase
insurance, all you need is the car's registration.
What can happen if you don't have Mexican insurance
in Mexico? If you are involved in an accident, regardless of
who's at fault, you can be detained for hours, and even jailed.
It is the law in Mexico, and it is enforced.
Regarding rental cars, most companies do not
allow their cars to be taken into Mexico, and no company allows their cars
to be taken into Mexico without their permission. It is advisable
to check with the rental company first, regarding taking their cars into
Mexico, before renting. Some companies will let you take their cars
into a limited area of Mexico (maybe 100 miles south), but they will usually
require you to buy their own Mexican insurance.
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Checkpoints
In the mid- to late-80's, the United States was
being flooded with illegal drugs from many foreign countries. This
had been going on for years previous, but the cocaine boom of the '80's
and the American press brought the drug problem to the forefront.
American officials decided that the best way to keep drugs out of the U.
S., was to stop the importation before the items ever reached the border.
Hence, the Mexican Army "checkpoint" began.
Therefore, if you make plans to travel any decent
length of the Baja peninsula, you will more than likely encounter at least
one of these checkpoints along the way. At first glance, these stops
may seem intimidating. You're usually in the middle of nowhere, stopped
in the middle of the road by 17- to 21-year old Army soldiers carrying
loaded AK-47's, who barely speak English. Who wouldn't be intimidated,
at least at first?
Well, as it turns out, these checkpoints are
nothing more than a minor stop for the average traveler. The soldiers
that man these posts are generally very friendly to those who are friendly
to them.
That brings up the first hint of advice when
you get to one of these places - be friendly and courteous. Smile,
and remember, these soldiers are in the middle of the desert, usually in
very warm or hot conditions, and they probably get bored and irritated
quickly. Chances are, they will either speak very little English,
or no English at all. Be patient, and follow all the instructions
the soldier gives you. Depending on the circumstances (and his mood),
the soldier will either:
(1) wave you through,
(2) ask you questions then wave you through,
(3) ask you to get out and open the trunk, or
(4) ask you to get out and completely search your car.
You should do whatever this soldier wants, to a degree that is reasonable
(searching your car is a reasonable request).
The second hint of advice is what you do when
you approach the checkpoint. This may seem like common sense, but
you should drastically slow down and drive very slow to the soldier at
the site where he tells you to stop. I couldn't imagine what the
soldier would think if someone pulled up to him very quickly and came to
a screeching halt before him. If anything, that would probably make
the soldier very upset.
Third hint of advice, make sure your window is
down before you reach the checkpoint. Chances are, the soldier is
going to ask you at least one question (usually, "where are you heading"
or "where are you going"). For him to have to signal you to roll
down your window could get him in a suspicious mood to begin with, not
a good way to start a conversation. Again, this may sound very obvious
to most people, but it's done quite often.
Fourth hint of advice, if a soldier decides that
he wants you to get out of your car for any reason, turn the car engine
off, and take the keys with you. Also, keep an eye on any item in
your car you consider "valuable" (i.e., wallets, purses, cameras, etc.).
I've never heard of an instance where a soldier has stolen an item from
anyone, but you can never be too careful. If more than one soldier
is searching your car (which is often the case), try to keep an eye on
both.
One spot in your car that soldiers love to search
is the drink cooler. If you can spare a lot of drinks, you may want
to offer them to the soldiers. I'm sure they'd appreciate it.
Remember, however, that there are sometimes numerous men at these spots,
so you may want to do this rather sparingly.
Again, these checkpoints are located all throughout
the Baja peninsula. The soldiers will usually ask you where you are
going, where you may be coming from, and if you are carrying any drugs
or guns. If you are innocent, then you should have absolutely no
problems at any of these spots. Be courteous to the soldiers you
meet, greet them with a smile, and your checkpoint adventure will be nothing
but a short delay in your lengthy trip.
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| Baja Highways
Highway 1
Highway 1 stretches 1,059 miles down the peninsula,
starting as soon as you cross the border in Tijuana, all the way south
to Cabo San Lucas. Traveling Highway 1 all the way down, will take
the average driver in the average vehicle, approximately 23-26 hours.
This is under normal driving conditions, assuming the driver(s) of the
vehicle are driving "safely". Many things may alter this time - weather,
road construction, condition of the vehicle, etc.
If you are traveling on Highway 1 for the first
time, then you should estimate your time from Tijuana to Cabo San Lucas,
as 3-4 days. That is driving approximately 9-12 hours a day.
There are 2 main reasons why, the first time driver should allow at
least 3 days for this drive:
(1) Highway 1 - the road
is very narrow, made to fit two semi's side-to-side, and nothing else.
In general, shoulders are nonexistent on the highway. There are many
mountain routes, with twisty, curving bends. Also, other drivers,
seemingly more "experienced" drivers, tend to drive like maniacs on this
highway. Truckers love to cradle the center line (if there is one),
and bus drivers seem to think they are driving Porsches and not busses.
Concentration is critical anytime you drive Highway 1. Because of
this, you tire more quickly than normal, so you need to stop more often.
(2) You should never
drive at night, unless it is an emergency. One reason for not driving
at night on Highway 1, is that the road has no lights, except in certain
towns. This makes visibility tough, especially after driving all
day, and with hundreds of dead insects stuck to your windshield.
Then there is crime. Although this is extremely
rare, there have been reports of obstacles placed out on the road to stop
you as you drive (like a large branch or rock). Then, when you stop
to move this object, you are approached by bandits, who proceed to rob
you. Again, this is very, very rare (I've never seen or heard
this happen firsthand).
The main reason for not driving at night, though,
is farm animals. There are many cows, horses, and goats which graze
along Highway 1's edge, feeding on the grass and plants. At night,
when the temperature drops, the animals (especially cows), tend to roam
onto the road's asphalt surface, which holds heat longer than the desert
floor. It is not improbable for someone to turn a corner at night,
and see a cow in their headlights. It is also not improbable for
that same someone to not be able to stop in time.
Just so you know, my friends and I are not perfect.
We have driven at night a few times, and luckily we have avoided major
catastrophe. However, we slow our speed drastically, and we are very
careful, especially around corners.
On a personal note, there is one more reason
why the first-time driver should take his or her time while driving Highway
1 - the scenery. What fun is a vacation, if you are spending too
much time trying to get to your destination, and seeing nothing in between?
There are so many places and things to see between Tijuana and Cabo San
Lucas, it would be a shame to fly by them in such a haste.
Since Highway 1 is the main route in Baja, it
stands to reason that almost all of the major towns, cities, and interesting
points would be found either on or just off this route.
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Tijuana, is located on the border of
California and Baja California, just below San Diego. This is the
# 1 international destination for U. S. travelers, with over 1 million
visitors a year. Most Americans only visit Tijuana for a day, drawn
by the many bargains that can be found just across the international border.
Unfortunately, the bargains are becoming fewer and farer between, as Tijuana
becomes more sophisticated as a city.
The Immigration office ("Migracion", in Spanish),
is located on the far right side just as you cross the border. You
can get your tourist card stamped there any time of day.
Highway 1 actually has 2 routes here, the traditional
route, traversed mainly by locals and big rigs, and the toll road, labeled
Highway 1-D. This route has 4-lanes (2 in each direction) with center
dividers, heavy striping, is very well kept up, and has the ultimate draw
- spectacular scenery. Portions of the drive parallel the Pacific
coast, with breathtaking views of the rocky coastline below and the Coronado
Islands in the distance.
Highway 1-D stretches from Tijuana in the north,
to El Sauzal in the south, where it meets up with Highway 1, approximately
9 miles north of Ensenada. There are 3 toll booths on Highway 1-D,
the first located almost 5 miles from the border crossing, the second located
near Rosarito, about 16 miles later, and the last one nearly 40 miles later,
about 10 minutes outside Ensenada. When I last traveled on the road
in April of 2001, the cost was $2.20 (20 pesos) each toll, each way.
The price is well worth it.
Highway 1-D is also one of the very few Baja
roads which can be driven safely at night, but again reduced speed and
careful handling is necessary.
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Rosarito is very quickly becoming a
"hot" tourist spot, especially for college-age Americans who are looking
for an alternative to Ensenada. Rosarito is only 20 miles south of
the border, which makes it 50 miles closer than Ensenada. The beaches
of Rosarito are also closer than those in Ensenada, and are just as nice,
if not nicer than the ones found further south.
Rosarito can be reached via either Highway 1,
or Highway 1-D, and has many nice accommodations and restaurants.
**Side Note** - I made my first trip to
Mexico in 1986, when I was 19 years old. I remember my friends and
I visiting the Rosarito area, and even traveling further south to Puerto
Nuevo. At that time, Rosarito had the "Rosarito Beach Hotel", and
very little else. Puerto Nuevo (the "lobster capital of Baja"), consisted
of two restaurants, one of which was closed at the time we visited.
Now, 15 years later, Rosarito is booming with
many hotels and tourist accommodations, and Puerto Nuevo is full with restaurants
and curio shops all through town. This region is growing tremendously
fast. Whether this is a good thing, or a bad thing, depends solely
on the opinion of the person that visits there.
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Ensenada was once the big spot for college-age
Americans who wanted to "party" south of the border. In recent years,
Ensenada has given a lot of its reputation away to Rosarito in the north.
Still, it is not unusual to see Ensenada packed with people on weekends,
especially during holidays. Cruise ships enter Ensenada harbor on
Friday night from Los Angeles, bringing a multitude of tourists for a heavy
weekend of shopping and partying.
If you were young last time you visited Ensenada,
and haven't been back for a few years, you will see a few changes.
The main tourist street in town, Ave. Lopez Mateos, has been recently re-done,
with larger sidewalks. A few restaurants have placed tables and chairs
outside on these new sidewalks, to allow you a chance to eat outside if
you wish. Ensenada seems to be trying to "clean up" it's image as
a party-to-dawn town, and make the tourist notice its many curio shops
and other features.
Quality hotels abound in Ensenada, with such
famous names as Best Western and Travelodge, in addition to old favorites
like El Cid and Villa Marina. Restaurants and night life are also
excellent here.
**Side Note** - Watch for the "topes",
speed bumps located on Blvd. Azueta just as you are entering Ensenada.
These bumps are treacherous, and can cause a lot of damage to your vehicle
if traveled too fast.
Also, the immigration office (called "Migracion"
in Spanish), is located on the street with the speed bumps. The office
is across the street from the ship yard. When the office is open,
you can get your tourist cards stamped here.
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One place that the first-time visitor must
see, is La Bufadora, located near Maneadero, 10 miles south of Ensenada,
then 14 miles west. A natural sea spout (or "blowhole"), is located
at this spot, and the show that is put on can be spectacular, especially
during heavy surf. Bring a camera, but be careful not to get wet!
**Side Note** - After Maneadero, the traveler
is required to have a validated tourist card. See Tourist
Cards above for more info.
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After leaving Ensenada, Highway 1 meanders
through hills, passing the small agricultural towns of Santo Tomas, San
Vicente, and Colonia Guerrero, before reaching the farming town of San
Quintin. The town, located 120 miles south of Ensenada, actually
has two sections, a northern half called "San Quintin", and a southern
half called "Lazaro Cardenas". Each section has many stores &
restaurants, and a Pemex gas station is located in the north.
San Quintin is known more for it's farming than
anything else. The main tourist attraction are the beaches west of
the town.
**Side Note** - In late 1997, into 1998 and
even early 1999, San Quintin had a series of problems with crimes against
foreign visitors. At that time, there was a general boycott called
of the entire San Quintin area by frequent Baja travellers. Since
that time, the boycott has been lifted, but the tourist should still be
careful when staying for any significant length of time in this area.
On a personal note, I spent two days in San Quintin late in 1998, and had
no problems whatsoever. In fact, I had a great time (I was visiting
my wife's relatives).
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Catavina and the area surrounding this
very small town, is one of the more beautiful, natural regions of Baja.
Huge boulders surround cactus and other desert plants, in this so-called
"rock garden". The "town" itself, located about 110 miles from San
Quintin, is really nothing more than the Hotel La Pinta, a mechanic, a
couple of restaurants, and a closed Pemex station.
The Hotel La Pinta (actually one in a successful
chain of hotels stretching through the peninsula - all government owned)
in Catavina is a very nice place to stay - something you wouldn't expect
here in the "middle of nowhere". The hotel has a pool, a recreation
room (pool table and Ping-Pong table), and a decent restaurant. Rooms
are very clean, and well kept.
Indian rock carvings/paintings may be found in
the region (I have never seen them, just heard about them), but the spectacular
scenery is the lure for this area.
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The junction to the paved route to Bahia
de Los Angeles, is approximately 65 miles south of Catavina.
The town itself, is 42 miles from Highway 1, via this paved route.
Bahia de Los Angeles has a couple of things going
for it. It is the first area off of Highway 1, where you can take
a paved road to the Sea of Cortez (or Gulf of California). Although
the water is not warm here (thanks to cold water upwellings), the fishing
is exceptional, especially for smaller game fish. Although very seasonal,
yellowtail and roosterfish may be caught in these waters, along with the
occasional marlin. Triggerfish are abundant, as are bass, and corvina.
If you ask around, you are sure to find someone with a boat, willing to
take you out for a price. Expect to pay anywhere from $50-100 a person,
depending on the amount of people, size of the boat, etc.
Another lure for Bahia de Los Angeles is the
Sea of Cortez itself. Huge Isla Angel de la Guarda stands offshore,
protecting this bay from huge swells or turbulent seas. Therefore,
the water is pristine and usually flat, perfect for kayaking. There
are a couple of reachable islands located off shore, though it is a bit
of a distance to get to them.
For me, another reason to go to Bahia de Los
Angeles is solitude. The city is located literally in the middle
of nowhere, with little resources. There are a few stores, and a
couple of motels with modest accommodations, but overall the town is laid
back, with little more for the tourist to do than to relax.
The town is powered by generators, since electricity
is not yet available there. At 9 pm every night (give or take an
hour), the generators switch off, and the town becomes completely black.
It's an incredible site, being hundreds of miles from the nearest city
lights, seeing the zillions of stars in the sky. My friends and I
watched a thunderstorm over the Sea of Cortez one night, which appeared
to be dozens of miles away, with the blanket of darkness giving us a brilliant
view.
**Side Note** - It should be noted that
Bahia de Los Angeles is very unreliable as far as gasoline is concerned.
It is advisable that you fill up before getting to the junction, in either
San Quintin or Catavina (if there is any fuel in Catavina). The gas
station at Bahia de Los Angeles junction was closed permanently a couple
of years ago.
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Guerrero Negro is the first large size
town reached after San Quintin. Located 80 miles from the Bahia de Los
Angeles junction, Guerrero Negro has a few decent hotels (including a La
Pinta), some good restaurants, and stores.
The main resource for this town is salt.
Ponds caused by flooded sea water, located southwest of town, evaporate
quickly in the hot sun, leaving the hard packed salt behind. The
salt is collected, loaded on barges, and shipped out to Isla Cedors offshore,
for processing. According to the main salt companies in Baja, Guerrero
Negro is the leading salt producer in the world.
The major tourist draw for Guerrero Negro lies
in the lagoons and bays to the south. It is here where the California
Grey Whale heads for the winter, and bears its young, nursing them until
the long swim back up north in spring. There are a few spots to see
the whales from the salt loading wharf's 7 miles west of town, or along
the beaches on Scammon's Lagoon, about 20 miles south of town.
Scammon's Lagoon is a very popular site amongst
the whales, whose main congregation takes place in the months of January,
February, and March. You may also be able to see some of the whales
as far south as Laguna San Ignacio, which is accessible by dirt road from
Highway 1.
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After traveling hundreds of miles through
rather inhospitable terrain, you turn a curve in the mountains, and spot
an oasis with hundreds of date palms. After rubbing your eyes to
be sure you are not seeing a mirage, you realize you are in the region
of San Ignacio. Located 88 miles southeast of Guerrero Negro,
and fed by the San Ignacio river, the town is a truly beautiful site for
any Baja traveler.
In the city, the main town square sits opposite
Mision San Ignacio, maybe the most beautiful mission in all Baja.
A visit to this mission is a must for any traveler through the region.
San Ignacio has at least two hotels (including
La Pinta as you enter town), a few small restaurants, and a some small
stores.
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Santa Rosalia is the first city directly
on Highway 1, that is actually located at the Sea of Cortez. The
city is unique among Baja towns, especially within the building's architecture.
The town has a definite European feel, all the way down to it's church,
designed by A. G. Eiffel (yes, the same Eiffel from the Eiffel Tower).
Santa Rosalia has a Pemex station, a few restaurants,
and hotels for the traveler. The town itself is surrounded by mining
facilities, which, along with fishing, provides the main economy for its
residents.
**Side Note** - If at all possible, avoid
the Pemex station at Santa Rosalia. This station is notorious for
over-charging the consumer, and the attendants are friendly with the local
police. The best way to stop this corruption, is to avoid it all
together.
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Like San Ignacio, Mulege is an oasis
town. Located 38 miles south of Santa Rosalia, and one mile west
of the Gulf, Mulege's two main attractions are its mission, and it's scenery.
Fed by the Rio Mulege, the town is covered with
palm trees, and is very similar in this regard to San Ignacio.
The mission, dubbed "Mision Santa Rosalia de
Mulege", is located a bit outside of town. There is a staircase behind
the mission, which leads up to a hill that offers a breathtaking view of
the river, palms, and town below. The mission is a must-see for any
Baja traveler.
If you are fortunate enough to be in Mulege in
the morning (before 11 am), it would be worth while to take the short journey
down an easy dirt road to the beach outside of town. A bit rocky,
the beach is shallow, and perfect for either swimming, or lounging with
your family. After noon, winds tend to pick up, and the once pleasant
ocean can become fairly rough. As in all the towns along this part
of the Gulf, fishing in Mulege is outstanding.
**Side Note** - between Mulege and Loreto,
the traveler will encounter the extremely beautiful "Bahia Conception".
For over 20 miles, Highway 1 traverses through hills to breathtaking views
of the aqua green Gulf below. There are several very short routes
which lead off the main highway, to the beaches which line the bay.
Bahia Conception is very protected, with dozens
of small- and medium-sized islands directly off shore, and the east side
of the bay forming a large peninsula rising north. The first of many
wonderful beaches, Playa Santispac, has rustic campsites, as do many other
spots along the bay.
In the afternoon, winds can pick up, blowing
sand and making the beach fairly rough. These winds tend to die down
by late afternoon, leaving very pleasant nights and mornings. In
summer months, temperatures can reach over 100 F, with very high humidity,
which make some spots along the Gulf a bit inhospitable.
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Loreto is 84 miles south of Mulege.
The town is rather large, and even has an international airport.
Fishing is the main draw for most visiting this area, but Loreto has a
bit more for the traveler.
Loreto has many hotels (including La Pinta),
restaurants (including El Nido Steakhouse), and other tourist-friendly
sites.
The mission in Loreto is the oldest Jesuit mission
in all the California's, dating to 1697. While the outside of the
mission is rather unimpressive by other missions standards, the inside
is indeed spectacular and very well kept up.
There are a few beaches south of town which are
said to be very nice (I've never seen them). There was once a "resort"
to be built near Napolo about 10 miles south of town, and there is one
hotel on the beach there that has changed hands many times. It is
under different ownership, and is now called the "Diamond Eden Resort".
There is a beautiful mission located in the hills
southwest of Loreto, called Mision San Javier. While it is difficult
to reach (you need a sturdy vehicle, 4-wheel drive preferred), it is well
worth the trip, if time permits.
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Highway 1 heads south of Loreto, through hills,
then turns west through the desert to the twin towns of Ciudad Insurgentes
and Ciudad Constitucion. Insurgentes, the first to be reached,
is 75 miles from Loreto, with Constitucion reached 14 miles later.
Both towns serve as distribution centers for agriculture farmed from the
nearby Santo Domingo Valley.
Many services are available for the tourist,
including some hotels, Pemex stations, stores, and restaurants. However,
these towns are not tourist oriented, so one may find themselves with little
to do in town, and be forced to the side routes heading to the Pacific
Ocean to the west, or to the oasis towns in the mountains to the north.
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Travelers searching for a bit of tourism,
while trying to stay away from the "tourist" resorts, need look no further
than the capital of the state of Baja California Sur, La Paz.
With its lovely bay, fine hotels and restaurants, and incredible beaches,
La Paz is everything the tourist is looking for - without the "touristy"
feel. The only thing lacking in La Paz, it would seem, is other tourists.
With a population nearly 70% of the entire state
of Baja California Sur, La Paz is the most important city in the lower
half of Baja. The town is on the Gulf of California, but actually
faces west, since it is located on the southeast side of the Bahia de La
Paz. Fishing outside the bay is extraordinary, and is an important
resource for the residents.
Heading north of La Paz, along the bay, one reaches
Pichilingue, a launching point for the ferry which takes travelers across
to Topolobampo on the mainland of Mexico.
Although the beaches south of Pichilingue are
nice, it is just a few miles north of this point, where the traveler reaches
Playa Tecolote. Formerly one of the nicest beaches in all of Baja,
Tecolote has become a victim of man's intrusion. The route to the
beach from Pichilingue used to be dirt/rock, and while passable in an ordinary
vehicle, the road was sometimes rough and always difficult. At that
time, the beach was pristine and truly wonderful. However, in 1991
or 1992, the route to the beach was paved, and locals began to leave the
beaches in town for the 30 minute drive and the wonderful beach outside
the city. With the locals, came the trash and assorted garbage, along
with the speed boats, and banana boats, and jet skis (fuel and oil included).
The beach that was so wonderful before, with zillions of fish for the snorkeling
enthusiast, has now been reduced to just another nice beach in Baja.
Sad, but true.
Hotels in La Paz include Hotel Los Arcos, Cabanas
de Los Arcos, and Hotel La Perla. For the budget minded, Hotel Lorimar
is located just up the street from Hotel Los Arcos. Although accommodations
are modest at best, the people running the hotel are extremely friendly,
and the atmosphere is brilliant.
Restaurants in La Paz are good, with many lurking
across the street from the malecon, with outdoor seating. Seafood
is always fresh and excellent.
Fishing and diving trips can be arranged at almost
any hotel, along with kayaking trips, or snorkeling trips to the outer
islands. Isla Espiritu Santo is located less than 20 miles outside
the city, and is a fine site for any snorkeler (be sure to leave early
in the morning, since winds tend to pick up in the afternoon).
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Highway 1 leaves La Paz, and heads into semi-tropical
hills, even passing the Tropic of Cancer, before reaching Los Cabos. San
Jose del Cabo is the first town, located 119 miles from La Paz, then
Cabo
San Lucas, 18 miles later. I have never stayed in San Jose del
Cabo, but I have heard it is a very nice town, with good hotels and a pleasant
atmosphere.
Cabo San Lucas is the point where Highway 1 officially
ends. Known for it's outstanding sport fishing and night life, Cabo
is a true tourist town. I personally find the beaches to be nice,
yet unspectacular. The diving off the coast is good, but swimming
is only so-so. The water is a bit rougher and cooler here than in
La Paz or other sites to the north, since the Pacific and Gulf meet at
this point.
The main lure for Cabo has been, and will be,
the sport fishing. Charters which charge $250 per person and up for
the opportunity to have someone else catch a marlin for you (then hand
you the rod to fight with it for hours), just doesn't seem to hit it off
with me. My friends and I have talked to local fisherman about going
out for a day on their small skiffs (for smaller game fish, not the big
type), but even they seem to charge exorbitant fees for this.
Night life in Cabo is some of the liveliest on
the peninsula, with many discos and bars located throughout the town.
In addition, many new restaurants are opening all the time, including McDonald's
and Burger King.
If you take away the tourism, Cabo would be nothing
more than a scant little town on the tip of the peninsula. For those
expecting a lot, Cabo may be a bit disappointing at first, especially in
appearance. However, the town has seen much growth in the last few
years, as more and more tourists flow to this easily accessible location.
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Summary - Highway 1 has been called
"Baja's Lifeline". Considering the huge growth the peninsula has
seen, especially in the last 10-15 years, you can see why. Rumors
flowed nearly 10 years ago, that a toll road would be built stretching
from Tijuana to Cabo, to boost tourism even more. Although this never
came to pass, it indicates Mexico's belief that one day Baja California
will be as popular, or more so, than Cancun, Acapulco, or Mazatlan.
Highway 1 may just be the key, for this dream to come true.
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Highway 5
Highway 5 starts in Mexicali, traveling completely
south to the growing village of San Felipe. The same route then continues
on to Puertecitos, Bahia San Luis Gonzaga, and eventually meets up with
Highway 1, approximately 34 miles south of Catavina.
Highway 5 is very similar in many ways, to Highway
1 - the road starts in a border town, eventually becomes 2 lanes, and crosses
miles of desert. One difference - Highway 5 is the shortest route
for visitors from the U. S. to reach the Sea of Cortez.
The drive from Mexicali to San Felipe is approximately
120 miles, but is mostly flat, straight, and very quick. When I last
traveled this road in January, 2003, it was in very good condition the
entire way to San Felipe. The speed limit on this route is 80 Km
per hour (about 50 mph), and this speed has become strictly enforced.
I have seen a strong police presence on this road the last few times I
have visited. In the past, it was not unusual for cars to pass at
incredibly high speeds, but this is not as common anymore.
Highway 5 starts in Mexicali, and for the first
30 miles or so, the traveler passes through miles of small towns, all outcroppings
from the big city of Mexicali. After a while, the towns disappear,
and Laguna Salada is reached. This was once a rather good sized lake,
but usually the lake is dry all year.
After Laguna Salada, Highway 5 passes through
many rough looking hills. There are a couple of mining operations
here, including Buena Vista mines, which was recently reopened for the
first time in years. After 88 miles, El Chinero is reached.
This is the junction with Highway 3 which leads to Ensenada. There
is a permanently manned checkpoint at this location. Prepare to stop
and have your car searched.
During the last 32 miles after El Chinero, many
small side routes are passed. These routes lead east to numerous
"Campo's", located on the Sea of Cortez. For a fee, the traveler
can camp out on the beach, and probably enjoy some solitude. A short
few miles after the last campo, the driver reaches San Felipe.
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Depending on the time of year, San Felipe
can be the most relaxing, comfortable spot on the peninsula. Other
times, it can be the noisiest town in Baja.
San Felipe saw a tremendous growth in the '90's.
The city was once a small fishing village, and most of the tourists who
visited came for the fishing, and little else. In the 90's, Sn Felipe
attracted tourists of a more "adventurous" and rowdy nature - ATV's, dune
buggy's, dirt bikes, and Jet Ski's were very common vehicles you would
have seen being towed or carried down Highway 5 from Mexicali.
Of course, this boom in tourism also brought
on more shops, restaurants, and hotels. Therefore, San Felipe has
much to offer the visitor. Hotel El Cortez is located on the beach,
and is reasonably priced for the area. The rooms are unspectacular,
but having a restaurant, a bar, and a pool all located on the sand of the
beach, is enough lure to make this hotel an enjoyable stay.
Hotel Las Missiones seems to be the hotel of
choice lately. Located 3 miles from the town malecon, with a beautiful
pool area, and easy, private-beach access, this hotel draws many tourists.
The city used to have a very good draw - the
malecon had many small stands lining the street, selling fish tacos, shrimp
cocktails, and other seafood delights. It was very relaxing to be
able to eat such delicacy's, yet still be able to look out over the beautiful
ocean. Unfortunately, in early-1998, the city removed the stands
from the street, and placed them into one "plaza" type area. I ate
there in May, and did not like the atmosphere at all. It's truly
a shame to see, but a little bit of Baja charm has disappeared from this
town.
As I mentioned earlier, San Felipe can be the
most relaxing, comfortable spot in Baja. This is especially true
on weekdays, and weekends when nothing is happening. There have been
many weekdays, where there is virtually nothing to do here but sit on the
beach and enjoy the sun.
However, on U. S. or Mexican holiday weekends,
be forewarned - San Felipe turns into a very busy, noisy, party town.
My wife and I made the mistake of planning a trip here the weekend of May
1-3, 1998, not knowing that May 1 is a Mexican holiday (Labor Day).
The entire city was filled with people - almost all from Mexicali or Tijuana,
who had come to take advantage of the long weekend. Every hotel in
the city was full, so we eventually had to make the drive up to Mexicali,
and stay one night there, before returning Sunday.
U. S. holidays can be worse. Many San Diego,
Los Angeles, and Arizona residents love to travel to San Felipe during
long weekends, and many of these people do nothing but party all day and
all night.
As in Mexicali, the summers can be tremendously
hot here, with temperatures reaching well above 110 F. Although most
hotels have air conditioning, some don't work well, and others don't work
at all. The worst time to visit San Felipe for heat is late-June
to late-August. The best time of year, is usually May or October.
Of course, some people simply love the heat, and it is not uncommon to
see San Felipe packed with people in summer, especially around July 4.
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Highway 5 officially stops in San Felipe.
However, there is an extension of the road south of San Felipe, which heads
along the coast, turns slightly inland, then levels out to the American
vacation town of Puertecitos.
Located 52 miles from San Felipe, Puertecitos
is a small, rather unspectacular town, almost completely inhabited by Americans
and their small homes. At one eastern point of town, are 3 "hot spring"
pools, located on a rocky beach. At medium- to high-tide, cooler
water from the ocean mixes in with the hot water, and the springs become
a virtual warm bath house. There is now a charge of $1 per person
to enter the town of Puertecitos.
This road, when I last drove it in January 2003,
was in great condition up[ to Km. 32. After this, the road is extremely
poor all the way to Puertecitos.
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The pavement ends at Puertecitos, but there
is a graded, usually driveable road that leaves town, heading south.
The traveler may be able to make the drive in a passenger car, in dry weather,
but a sturdy vehicle, preferably 4WD, is recommended.
After 45 miles of rough going, the road reaches
the very nice beaches of Bahia San Luis Gonzaga. The bay actually
consists of two beaches, the nicest of which (in my opinion), is the southern
beach. The northern portion of the southern half of the bay is called
Alfonsina's. This beach is lined with American vacation homes, and
at the extreme north is a hotel and restaurant. The middle of this
portion of the bay is called Rancho Grande, and has palapas on the beach,
where the driver may pull up (be careful of deep sand) and camp.
The southern portion is all beach, wrapping around to the southern part
of the bay.
Bahia San Luis Gonzaga has all the properly equipped
visitor needs - decent campsites, hotel, and restaurant, but most of all
a spectacular bay and beautiful beach. At night, the stars are quite
incredible, since the beach is literally in the middle of nowhere, and
no lights are visible for miles.
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Traveling south from Bahia San Luis Gonzaga,
the road heads inland, offering many miles of beautiful desert scenery.
This route is a bit better than the northern portion, but still bumpy.
After 32 miles, the junction with Highway 1 is reached, with Catavina 34
miles to the north, and the junction with Bahia de Los Angeles 31 miles
to the south.
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